Our ancestors, the early humans, had to base their food selection only on their senses. Sweet was energy, umami indicated the presence of proteins and saltiness was the sign for the much needed minerals. Generally, they avoided sour taste because it represented rotten or spoiled food, and bitter was the taste tonics and remedies were made of, and yes, it is now confirmed that bitter gourds are good for you.
Wild bitter gourds are smaller and much bitterer than their relative, the Chinese bitter gourd. (see: Clear soup of bitter gourd stuffed with pork) I love to use them in Jungle curries, or just biting them fresh when serving chili relishes.
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In this recipe we will eliminate some of the bitterness by repetitively covering the fruits with salt and washing the bitterness away with a lot of water.
But before we will merge the bitterness of the gourds with the sweetness of the jasmine scented sugar syrup, we will have to soak them overnight in a clear solution of Thai red pickling lime (calcium hydroxide mixed with turmeric) (available in Thai markets as pboon deang; ปูนแดง) to strengthen their cellular structure, resulting in a finish product that is beautifully crispy and crunchy.
These candied wild bitter gourds would serve as a wonderful confection, served either on its own or as condiment alongside other dishes.
Many songs were written about the taste of bitter love and this recipe is dedicated to my love of bitter taste.
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Ingredients
- 1/2 Kg bitter gourd (มะระขี้นก) Fresh
- 3 cups sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 3 cups Thai red pickling (limestone) solution (น้ำปูนแดง)
- 3 cups granulated sugar (น้ำตาลทราย)
- 3 cups water (น้ำเปล่า)
- 1 teaspoons essence of jasmine
ส่วนผสม
- มะระขี้นก 1/2 กิโล
- เกลือป่น 3 ถ้วย
- น้ำปูนแดงใส 3 ถ้วย
- น้ำตาลทรายขาว 3 ถ้วย
- น้ำเปล่า 3 ถ้วย
- กลิ่นมะลิ 1/2 ช้อนชา
Instructions
- Mix 3 cups of water with Thai red pickling lime. Let the solution to settle overnight leaving the lime sediments and a clear solution. Set aside
ผสมปูนแดงกับน้ำเปล่า ใส่ในโหลแก้ว แล้วทิ้งไว้จนปูนตกตะกอน และพักเอาไว้. - Select fruits that are fresh and uniform in size. Wash and dry well.
เลือกมะระขนาดเล็กขนาดเท่า ๆ กัน ล้างให้สะอาด - Cut the bitter gourds in halves, and with a spoon scope out the seeds.
ผ่ามะระแล้วแกะเมล็ดออก - Cover with salt and leave to rest for about 20 minutes.
โรยเกลือป่นลงไป ทิ้งเอาไว้ประมาณ 20 นาที - Wash well.
ล้างน้ำให้สะอาด - Repeat the salt treatment for another two times; wash In between treatments to eliminate the bitterness.
โรยเกลือ และ ล้างน้ำ ทำอย่างนี้ต่อไป อีกสองครั้ง - Soak overnight in the clear solution of Thai red pickling lime.
แช่มะระในน้ำปูนใสแล้วทิ้งไว้ข้ามคืน - Discard the pickling solution.
เทน้ำปูนใสทิ้ง - Wash well to eliminate any traces and smell of the Thai red pickling lime.
ล้างมะระในน้ำเปล่าให้หมดกลิ่นปูน - In a copper pot dissolve sugar with water over low heat.
ตั้งกระทะทองเหลืองด้วยไฟอ่อน ผสมน้ำเปล่ากับน้ำตาลทราย แล้วคนจนน้ำตาลทรายละลายหมด - Add essence of jasmine.
เติมกลิ่นมะลิลงไป - When the syrup has thickened add the gourds.
พอน้ำเชื่อมเริ่มข้น ใส่มะระตามลงไป - Cook until transparent and the syrup has become thick.
เคี่ยวน้ำเชื่อมต่อไป น้ำเชื่อมซึมเข้าไปในเนื้อมะระ - Cool down and serve.
เสริฟ
Clear Soup of Bitter Gourd Stuffed with Pork and Glass Noodles ต้มจืดมะระยัดไส้หมูสับ ; dtohm jeuut mara yat sai muu sap
Bitter gourds have long been prized in Asia for a trait considered a defect in cucumbers: bitterness. We tend to believe that anything bitter is medicinal and, in this case, we could be correct. The bitter gourd is said to cure a wide range of ailments – from gastrointestinal conditions to cancers, and from diabetes to HIV.
Also known as bitter melons, bitter gourds are pale green, with an irregular, warty surface. Typically, they are eaten following an initial treatment to remove some of the bitterness; often they are stuffed, to complement their somewhat eccentric bite.
Sohm Choon Fruit Dessert of Lychee, Green Mango, Young Ginger in Jasmine, Bitter Orange, and Pandan-Scented Sweet and Salty Syrup, Topped with Grilled Shallots, Peanuts and Roasted Coconut
(ส้มฉุน ; sohm choon)
The first reference to sohm choon as a dessert appears in in the early 1800s, in the culinary poetry of King Rama II gaap heh chohm khreuuang khaao waan (กาพย์เห่ชมเครื่องคาว – หวาน). The poetry was sung during the royal barge’s procession, and this verse refers to sohm choon as a dish made of lychees. A closer look at other foods that are mentioned in the verse also reveals other dishes that are clearly of Chinese origin, such as boiled pork spleen (dtohm dtap lek ต้มตับเหล็ก), steamed bird’s nests (rang nohk neung รังนกนึ่ง) and persimmons (luuk phlap ลูกพลับ).
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
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