The name of thae phoh curry (แกงเทโพ) comes from the black ear catfish (pangasius larnaudii) (in Thai: thaeh phoh, ปลาเทโพ). Hard to catch, this elusive freshwater fish is an essential and much sought-after ingredient for this dish, with its belly the preferred cut to use. It was cooked together with water spinach (phak boong, ผักบุ้ง) or with deep-fried vegetables. Thai cooks sometimes resorted to other meats, due to the difficulties in obtaining the black ear catfish, but the dish retains its name.
Thae phoh curry is a curry with multi-sour flavor shades. Thae phoh falls into the category of the gaaeng khuaa (แกงคั่ว) style of Thai red curries, as it contains no dry spices except white peppercorns. Instead, smoked dried fish meat is added to the red curry paste to accentuate and widen its umami-smoky savory flavor base.
Thae phoh curry is renowned for its flame-red broth – a broth redolent of the light and distinct citrusy aroma of kaffir lime leaves and juice. Its surface is jeweled with red oil drops released from the golden fish belly, suggesting an appetizing spicy feast to come. The curry’s distinct appearance earned it a poetic passage in the culinary poetry of King Rama II: “Gaap heh chohm khreuuang khaao waan” (กาพย์เห่ชมเครื่องคาว – หวาน), in which the King vividly describes the desire to take a sip from heavenly foods at the sight of the golden fatty fish belly:
These days, many would consider this dish to be a coconut-based Thai red curry; however, it can also be cooked as a water-based curry. This is because thae phoh curry evolved from a water-based sour curry called gaaeng chak sohm (แกงชักส้ม). But the practice of adding coconut cream to thae phoh curry makes culinary sense, as it underscores the oily rich properties of the ancient version.
As well, since black ear catfish meat is not always available, the dish can be cooked with fatty pork cuts such as the belly or neck, or a combination of pork meat and pork lard. In some cases, other oil-rich fish can be used, including queenfish (scomberoides commersonnianus, bplaa sala, ปลาสละ).
Maawm Luaang Tew Chonmakphichan (ม.ล. ติ๋ว ชลมารคพิจารณ์), the head of the royal kitchen serving the late H.M.K Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) between the years 1954-1965, clearly confirms in her article “What should we eat and in which month? (เราควรรับประทานอะไรเดือนไหนดี)” that the name thae phoh curry applies to the dish – even when it is cooked with pork meat.
Earliest mention of thae phoh curry in Thai culinary literature Bpradtithin Bat Laae Joht Maai Haeht (ประติทินบัตร แล จดหมายเหตุ) was a monthly journal published just five times between 1889 and 1890. Lady Plean Passakornrawong, the author in 1908 of the epic cookbook “Maae Khruaa Huaa Bpaa (แม่ครัวหัวป่าก์)”, published a food column for the journal, in which she shared recipes.
In the journal’s third volume, Lady Plean records a recipe for thae phoh curry with pork and water spinach (แกงหมูเทโพใส่ผักบุ้ง). In the fifth volume, she shares a thae phoh curry recipe using pork and madan (sour cucumber, Garcinia schomburgkiana, แกงหมูเทโพกับมะดัน).
Thae phoh curry recipe on Thaifoodmaster The version below comes from Lady Plean Passakornrawong. It is water-based and uses water spinach: we provide this version of the dish so that readers who may already be familiar with the coconut cream version have an opportunity to try another version of thae phoh curry. We also hope that readers who are interested in Thai culinary evolution will enjoy experiencing this curry, and learning to prepare it as it was made in the past.
Thae Phoh Thai Red Curry with Pork Neck and Water Spinach (แกงหมูเทโพใส่ผักบุ้ง)
Hanuman and Chef Thapakorn Lertviriyavit (Gorn)
Thae phoh curry is a spicy and salty Thai red curry with sour-sweet flavor shades. Thae phoh falls into the category of the gaaeng khuaa (แกงคั่ว) style of Thai red curries, as it contains no dry spices except white peppercorns. Instead, smoked dried fish meat is added to the red curry paste to accentuate and widen its umami-smoky savory flavor base.
3tablespoonssmoke-dried fish (all varieties) (ปลาย่างรมควัน)
Instructions
Char-roast the smoked dried fish until it is fragrant; then, using your hand, crumble it, discarding the fish bones and the abdomen. (Parasites often reside in the abdomens of freshwater fish). In a pestle and mortar, pound the fish meat into a coarse powder.
In a pot, melt pork lard over medium-low heat. Fry thinly sliced garlic until it is golden. Strain and reserve both the fried garlic and oil. Set aside.
The complete set of ingredients used to prepare the curry paste: lightly char-roasted dry bird’s eye chilies, finely chopped lemongrass, pounded smoked dried fish meat, deep-fried garlic, peeled shallots, sliced galangal, high-quality fermented shrimp paste, and white peppercorns.
Slice the pork neck into large bite-size pieces.
Wash the water spinach with plenty of water, and cut into 10cm (4”) pieces.
The complete set of ingredients ready to cook the curry; the pork cubes, curry paste and water spinach.
In a pot, melt pork lard over medium-low heat. (You can use all or some of the oil used to fry the garlic).
Add the pork meat and fry the pork meat until it is seared on all sides.
Add the curry paste.
Continue frying the meat until the curry paste is fragrant, and the pork is almost fully cooked.
Season with fish sauce.
Add water to cover the pork, and bring to a boil.
Season with palm sugar.
Season with tamarind paste.
Cook until the pork is tender.
Add hand-torn kaffir lime leaves.
Add a squeeze of kaffir lime.
Add the water spinach.
Cook until the water spinach is soft.
Serve.
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Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
Thai red curry is a broad term describing any curry that is red in color, although variations exist among the dish’s ingredients or their ratios. Today’s menu features a Thai red curry paste to which we add higher quantities of coriander root and kaffir lime zest; this creates a more aromatic character that will enhance the smokiness of the grilled pork meat and the mild sweetness of the unripe green bananas.
This water-based, spicy chicken curry is made with corn-yellow rendered chicken fat instead of coconut cream. Dark reddish-brown in color, this full-bodied and fatty beak-to-tail curry presents the chicken identity and personality in both a corporeal and tasty manner. Spices such as cardamom, nutmeg, mace and clove are added into the curry paste to temper the gamey-irony flavor of the offal and deodorize the meat, resulting in a luscious dish that is beautifully layered with textures and flavors.
This eel curry includes a greater-than-usual quantity of aromatics used over three stages. First, the eel is cleaned and sliced into segments; then it is fried with a generous amount of lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and shallots. These help to counter its muddy and somewhat iron-like odor, which disappears along with the liquids and the aromatics.
This eel curry recipe is adapted from the vintage book: “Gap Khaao O:H Chaa Roht” by Ging Ga Nohk) (กับข้าวโอชารส โดย กิ่งกนก – กาญจนาภา พ.ศ. 2485). This rare book was written in 1942 during WWII, a period of global turmoil in which Thailand was invaded by the Japanese. That same year marked a decade from the ending of absolute monarchy rule in 1932, and one generation away from the peak of the Siamese culinary renaissance that flourished in the court of King Rama V (1868-1910): a nostalgic era for its children who are still with us to remember and reflect on those times.
A popular noodle dish originating from the Northern region of the Kingdom, khanohm jeen naam ngiaao (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว) is characterized by its light – yet profound – multi-layered broth. This hearty broth includes an assortment of proteins braised with the dried pollens of cotton tree flowers, and Northern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม); the tomatoes infuse the broth with a subtle tartness that refreshes a full-bodied profile comprising a multitude of fermented ingredients.
The naam ngiaao broth is served over fermented rice noodles and features minced pork, and braised baby back pork ribs with their tender meat clinging to the bone. As well, there are succulent, slow-cooked whole chicken feet, and cubes of slightly bouncy, mauve-hued chicken blood cakes. Served alongside the soup are various toppings, which can include shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, chopped coriander leaves, and spring onions, while dark red chili oil and glossy, charred-fried dried bird’s eye chilies offer a fiery intensity dialed up to your preferred spiciness. In addition, I like to add wok-smoked sour cherry tomatoes and broom-like, crispy-fried dried cotton tree pollen for a surprising textural contrast.
Though the dish is often described as “Shan style”, the word ‘ngiao’ was a derogatory expression for the Shan people. As the disparaging – and outdated – label suggests, the recipe might reflect societal biases and prejudices; thus, at least from the culinary perspective, the ‘ngiao’ in the name of the dish may simply be a nod to the flavors or ingredients favored by The Shan, rather than a claim of authenticity – which could also explain why the dish is based on a Siamese curry paste.
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Gain access to NEW MONTHLY masterclasses as they become available.
1-1 support from Hanuman to help you achieve your professional Thai culinary goals
The opportunity to join a monthly live two-hour videoconference where I can answer your questions.
one year access for the price of 3 days in-person training.
You will get everything you need to:
When you design or build a new menu for an event or restaurant or even prepare for dinner with friends.
Finally !
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