Shrimp and tomato curry, circa 1937. Adapted from Khuu Meuu Gaan Khruaa by Ms. Chaluay Gandtwannee แกงกุ้งกับมะเขือเทศ คู่มือการครัว นางสาวฉลวย กันตวรรณี พ.ศ. 2480
1/2cupNorthern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม)green and red, halved
2tablespoonsdried shrimp (กุ้งแห้ง)preboiled with fingerroot (krachai) (กระชาย)
1/2teaspoongranulated sugar (น้ำตาลทราย)
1/2teaspoonsea salt (เกลือทะเล)
Seasoning:
1 1/2tablespoonsfish sauce (น้ำปลา)
1/2tablespoonpalm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
tamarind paste (น้ำมะขามเปียก)optional, as needed
For the curry paste:
6piecesdried red long chili (phrik chee fa) (พริกชี้ฟ้าแห้ง)deseeded and rehydrated
1teaspoonsea salt (เกลือทะเล)
2 1/2tablespoonslemongrass (ตะไคร้)thinly sliced
1 1/2tablespoonsgalangal (ข่า)thinly sliced
1tablespoonThai garlic (กระเทียมไทย)thinly sliced
2tablespoonsshallots (หอมแดง)thinly sliced
2piecesshrimp (กุ้ง)grilled head on shell on
1/2tablespoondried shrimp pounded to powder (กุ้งแห้งป่น)
shrimp tomalley (มันกุ้ง)
Instructions
Reserve two or three shrimp for the curry paste. Clean, peel and devein the rest of the shrimp for the curry. Set aside.
Pre-boil the dried shrimp for the stock:
Boil the dried shrimp in water with fingerroot. When the shrimp have softened, discard the water and the fingerroot. Set the dried shrimp aside.
Cook the tomato stock:
Fill a cooking pot with chicken stock.
Add the pre-boiled dried shrimp.
Cut the large tomatoes into quarters and add them to the stock.
Add unpeeled red and green Northern Thai sour cherry tomatoes (มะเขือส้ม).
Simmer on low heat until you are satisfied with the sourness of the broth pulled out from the tomatoes.
Add a pinch of salt and a pinch of granulated sugar to intensify the tomato element.
Prepare the curry paste:
An overview of the curry paste ingredients.
On a pan or in a wok, grill the shrimp; peel them and collect the meat and tomalley. Set aside.
De-seed and rehydrate the dried chilies in hot water.
Pound the curry paste, starting with the chilies and salt.
Gradually add the other ingredients, from the driest to the wettest. Pound the paste until it is smooth with a rounded aroma. After pounding the chilies, add the lemongrass and galangal.
Add the shallots and garlic.
Add the grilled shrimp, dried shrimp powder and shrimp tomalley.
Cook the curry:
In a brass wok, heat the coconut cream until it thickens and oil appears. Add the curry paste.
Fry the paste until it loses its rawness.
Stop the frying with plain water and the liquids collected from cleaning the mortar and pestle.
Important: at this stage, to separate the oil particles created during the paste-frying process from the rest of the broth, mix gently to avoid re-emulsification of the oil.
Add the peeled and deveined shrimp and allow to cook.
Diluting the curry:
Dilute the curry with coconut milk and the tomato-chicken stock to your liking.
Add sliced whole tomatoes.
Seasoning:
Season to a sour leading, salty with a sweet floor flavor profile. Taste before seasoning! Start by seasoning the salty element, using fish sauce.
When you are satisfied with the saltiness, add palm sugar at the ratio indicated.
Optional - Add tamarind paste at the ratio indicated.