The uniqueness of Thai cuisine and its hefty appeal to foreigners can be attributed to perfectly layered flavors, the discriminating selection of optimal ingredients, and a wide variety and range of dishes.
Nevertheless, at the heart of Thai cuisine lies a group of dishes that are less familiar to the outside world: dishes that speak from the soul of the country, narrating the story of the land, its people, and their culture.
Thai chili relishes (nam prik)
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Chili relishes (nam prik) are made by pounding chilies together with salty ingredients such as fermented shrimp paste, salted or dried shrimp, to which various proteins are added. The mix is then further seasoned to sour, salty and sweet flavors.
Bursting with tastes, chili relishes are served in a central bowl and eaten along with rice and a wide variety of condiments, sweet pork, grilled fish, salted meat, and vegetables picked fresh from the garden.
The evolutionary roots of chili relishes are found in the simple blending of chili with salt to season rice.
For today’s menu, I have chosen to present a nam prik recipe that is not very far from that stage in evolution, and that takes almost no time to prepare. For an old-fashioned relish, it offers a pungent kick that can be extremely satisfying in modern settings – and would be politically correct on the menus of health enthusiasts.
The citrus aromatics of the lemongrass are preserved almost intact and go very well with the peppery aroma of pungent fresh chilies. It is served with a range of blanched vegetables, steamed or fried fish, sweet pork, and of course, a bowl of rice – a balanced meal, full of nutrients and health.
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Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon dried shrimp (กุ้งแห้ง)
- 1/2 teaspoon sea salt (เกลือทะเล)
- 2 tablespoons lemongrass (ตะไคร้) finely chopped (about 3 stalks)
- 5-7 fresh bird’s eye chili (kee noo suan) (พริกขี้หนูสวนสด)
- 1/2 teaspoon fermented shrimp paste (kapi)(กะปิย่างไฟ)
- 1/2 teaspoon palm sugar (น้ำตาลมะพร้าว)
- 1/2 tablespoon fish sauce (น้ำปลา)
- 1 teaspoon lime juice (น้ำมะนาว)
Instructions
- Pound together dried shrimp and salt.
นำเอากุ้งแห้ง เกลือป่น ลงไปโขลกด้วยกันให้ละเอียด - Add chopped lemongrass.
ใส่ตะไคร้ซอยลงไป - Add bird’s eye chilies.
ใส่พริกขี้หนูลงไป - Pound together.
โขลกทั้งหมดให้ละเอียด - Pound into a smooth paste.
- Add grilled fermented shrimp paste.
เติมกะปิเผาลงไป - Add palm sugar.
ตามด้วยน้ำตาลมะพร้าวลงไป - Add fish sauce.
เติมน้ำปลา 1/2 ช้อนโต๊ะ - Squeeze a wedge of lime.
บีบมะนาว - Mix everything together.
คนส่วนผสมทั้งหมดให้เข้ากันดี - Serve with steamed and fried mackerel, sweet pork, salted duck eggs, and an assortment of fresh and boiled vegetables.
รับประทานแกล้มกับปลาทูทอด หมูหวาน ไข่เค็ม และผักลวก ผักสดต่าง ๆ
Rice Seasoned with Young Tamarind Relish, Sweetened Fish and Pickled Morning Glory (ข้าวคลุกน้ำพริกมะขามอ่อน ผักบุ้งดอง ปลาแห้งผัดหวาน และ ปลาดุกย่าง; Khaao Khlook Naam Phrik Makhaam Aawn Phakboong Daawng Bplaa Haaeng Phat Waan Lae Bplaa Dook Yaang)
Seasoned rice dishes have been a staple of rice-consuming societies almost since the first grains were cultivated. Adapted according to local resources, traditions and individual preferences, seasoned rice dishes are relished and savored across all walks of life. Within Siamese society, these dishes offer insight into the flavor instincts and eating habits across all demographics, revealing which food items were locally available and valued.
In this delicious seasoned rice recipe from the kitchens of the daughter of King Chulalongkorn, Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid (พระเจ้าบรมวงศ์เธอ พระองค์เจ้าเยาวภาพงศ์สนิท) (1884-1934), the Princess uses a variety of common preserved and inexpensive ingredients, clearly drawing inspiration from the cuisine of the Central Plains with nods to the rural and coastal living atmosphere.
c1941 Old-Fashioned spicy curry of chicken with young chilies (แกงเผ็ดแบบโบราณอย่างคุณถนอม ปาลบุตร พ.ศ. 2484 ; gaaeng phet baaep bo:h raan)
This is a classical Siamese spicy curry that displays a spicy, salty and sweet flavor profile, and uses common curry ingredients such as pea eggplants and young green chilies with an interesting dry spice profile.
Thai Chili Jam – This is a chili jam similar to what is commonly sold under the name of roasted chili paste (naam phrik phao; น้ำพริกเผา). It is widely used as a condiment in salad dressings, soups, and seasoning for stir-fried dishes. I like to have control over my pantry ingredients, so I always use homemade naam phrik phao. Furthermore, since it is a basic ingredient used in so many dishes, anything less than the best will drastically impair the quality of your dishes.
Perfumed Muslim-style Curry of Fresh Chilies with Beef (แกงเขียวหวานเนื้อทรงเครื่อง; Gaaeng Khiaao Waan Neuua Sohng Khreuuang)
The Indian and Muslim cuisines present distinct approaches to using dried spices in curries, both of which influence Siamese cuisine in different ways. Indian-inspired Siamese curries spotlight chilies for their vibrant color, fragrance, flavor and heat, while spices like cumin and coriander play a supporting role. The spices complement and temper the chilies’ intensity, creating a rounded, multi-layered flavor profile; nonetheless, the chilies remain the star ingredient, gently complemented by the spices.
Conversely, Muslim-influenced curries, such as massaman curry, prioritize spices over chilies. Spices like cardamom, nutmeg and mace take center stage, while the chilies provide subtle background heat rather than being the primary flavor. In these curries, the focus is on the rich, warm and complex aromas created by the blend of spices, which is a defining characteristic of many Muslim dishes.
Moreover, Siamese cuisine favors using rehydrated dried chilies in curries for their depth; this depth is highly appreciated, along with the complexity, and comparatively milder heat of the rehydrated dried chilies. As well, the harsh grassy notes of fresh chilies are not favored; they’re referred to in Thai as “green rank” or “men khiaao (เหม็นเขียว)”. Muslim curries often use fresh green chilies, tempering their vibrant, grassy taste with dry spices and thus shifting the flavor from bright and fresh to more subdued and earthy tones, resulting in a dish that is perceived to be layered, despite the burst of fresh chilies.
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